Dr KDSS B.O.T.C.K. Bolt-On Track Bar Correction Kit | 1998-2007 100 Series Land Cruiser & Lexus LX470

The Dr KDSS B.O.T.C.K. (Bolt-On Track Bar Correction Kit) for the Land Cruiser 100 Series and Lexus LX470 raises the axle-side track bar pivot to flatten the track bar angle after a lift. The result: a rear end that tracks straight, stays planted, and feels predictable on-road and off — with zero welding.

Why It Matters

Lifting a solid rear axle steepens the track bar (panhard bar) angle. A steep bar pushes the axle side-to-side as the suspension cycles instead of letting it move straight up and down, and the rear feels vague and unstable. Raising the pivot point levels the bar and brings handling back to normal.

Features

• 100% bolt-on design — no welding or cutting
• Wraps around and into the OEM mount, spreading load across the entire mount instead of relying on a weld line
• Returns the track bar to a more level position after a lift
• Keeps the rig tracking straight and planted on-road and off
• Updated design uses standard hex nuts (no flange nuts)
• Zinc-coated hardware included
• Works with KDSS and non-KDSS setups

Standard vs. Shorty — Pick the Right One

1. Park on level ground.
2. Measure from the ground to the center of the frame-side track bar bolt.
3. Measure from the ground to the center of the axle-side track bar bolt.
4. Subtract the two measurements to get your bolt-height difference:
   • 1.5"–2.99" → Shorty (or use the bottom hole on the Standard bracket)
   • 3" or more → Standard (use the top hole)

Planning to lift higher later? Go Standard — it gives you extra mounting options as ride height changes.

What's Included

• Front bracket
• Back bracket
• Passenger-side sway bar shim plate
• (1) M14 × 1.5 × 80mm flange head bolt
• (1) M14 × 1.5 × 75mm flange head bolt
• (1) M14 × 1.5 hex nut
• (4) M8 × 1.25 × 30mm bolts
• All hardware zinc coated

Torque Specs

• OEM bolt location: 105 ft-lbs
• Side bolt and main track bar bolt: 125 ft-lbs
• M8 bolts: 30 ft-lbs
• Use plenty of blue Loctite (or a dab of red) on all hardware
• Supplied M14 hardware uses an 18mm socket

Install Notes

1. Support the bracket-side axle on a hydraulic jack and remove the wheel for full access to the OEM bracket.
2. Loosen the passenger-side OEM track bar bolt (19mm).
3. Unbolt the axle side of the track bar and strap it out of the way.
4. Unbolt the brake line brackets and move the brake line away from the OEM mount, disconnect the ABS connector, and release tension on the e-brake cable.
5. Unbolt both sides of the sway bar (typically 10–13mm) so it can swing fully out of the way.
6. Drop in the back bracket. The OEM mount may need to be opened slightly — a large adjustable or plumber's wrench helps. Use the OEM bolt or supplied 80mm bolt to align it, threading 3–5 turns, then remove the bolt.
7. Work the main bracket around the tabs on the OEM mount and seat it against the mount. Thread the 80mm bolt into the OEM location 3–4 turns and leave it loose.
8. If the side bolt won't align, drop the track bar in loosely with the 75mm bolt and nut, then snug the 80mm bolt to pull the brackets into alignment. Thread in the side bolt 3–5 turns.
9. Swing the sway bar up and install the two M8 bolts on the bracket side. On the passenger side, install the shim plate with the M8 bolts so both sides match.
10. Rotate the hard brake line bolt tab to face up and reinstall the brake line.
11. Torque all hardware to spec.

Install Video

Notes

• Standard-height brackets can contact the frame at full suspension compression — true of every bracket of this type. Longer bump stops or bump stop spacers solve it, or run the Shorty.